https://talkingpointsmemo.com/cafe/why-do-poor-people-waste-money-on-luxury-goods
We hates us some poor people. First, they insist on being poor when it
is so easy to not be poor. They do things like buy expensive designer
belts and $2500 luxury handbags.
"I totally get that it's
horrible and illegal to profile people. But still #SMFH over a
not-filthy-rich person spending $2,500 on a handbag."
— Errol Louis (
@errollouis) October 29, 2013
To
be fair, this isn't about Errol Louis. His is a belief held by many
people, including lots of black people, poor people, formerly poor
people, etc. It is, I suspect, an honest expression of incredulity. If
you are poor, why do you spend money on useless status symbols like
handbags and belts and clothes and shoes and televisions and cars?
One
thing I've learned is that one person's illogical belief is another
person's survival skill. And nothing is more logical than trying to
survive.
My family is a classic black American migration family.
We have rural Southern roots, moved north and almost all have returned. I
grew up watching my great-grandmother, and later my grandmother and
mother, use our minimal resources to help other people make ends meet.
We were those good poors, the kind who live mostly within our means. We
had a little luck when a male relative got extra military pay when they
came home a paraplegic or used the VA to buy a Jim Walter house (pdf).
If you were really blessed when a relative died with a paid up insurance
policy you might be gifted a lump sum to buy the land that Jim Walters
used as collateral to secure your home lease. That's how generational
wealth happens where I'm from: lose a leg, a part of your spine, die
right and maybe you can lease-to-own a modular home.
We had a
little of that kind of rural black wealth so we were often in a position
to help folks less fortunate. But perhaps the greatest resource we had
was a bit more education. We were big readers and we encouraged the girl
children, especially, to go to some kind of college. Consequently, my
grandmother and mother had a particular set of social resources that
helped us navigate mostly white bureaucracies to our benefit. We could,
as my grandfather would say, talk like white folks. We loaned that
privilege out to folks a lot.
I remember my mother taking a next
door neighbor down to the social service agency. The elderly woman had
been denied benefits to care for the granddaughter she was raising. The
woman had been denied in the genteel bureaucratic way -- lots of
waiting, forms, and deadlines she could not quite navigate. I watched my
mother put on her best Diana Ross "Mahogany" outfit: a camel colored
cape with matching slacks and knee high boots. I was miffed, as only an
only child could be, about sharing my mother's time with the neighbor
girl. I must have said something about why we had to do this. Vivian
fixed me with a stare as she was slipping on her pearl earrings and told
me that people who can do, must do. It took half a day but something
about my mother's performance of respectable black person -- her Queen's
English, her Mahogany outfit, her straight bob and pearl earrings --
got done what the elderly lady next door had not been able to get done
in over a year. I learned, watching my mother, that there was a price we
had to pay to signal to gatekeepers that we were worthy of engaging. It
meant dressing well and speaking well. It might not work. It likely
wouldn't work but on the off chance that it would, you had to try. It
was unfair but, as Vivian also always said, "life isn't fair little
girl."
I internalized that lesson and I think it has worked out
for me, if unevenly. A woman at Belk's once refused to show me the
Dooney and Burke purse I was interested in buying. Vivian once made a
salesgirl cry after she ignored us in an empty store. I have walked away
from many of hotly desired purchases, like the impractical off-white
winter coat I desperately wanted, after some bigot at the counter
insulted me and my mother. But, I have half a PhD and I support myself
aping the white male privileged life of the mind. It's a mixed bag. Of
course, the trick is you can never know the counterfactual of your life.
There is no evidence of access denied. Who knows what I was not granted
for not enacting the right status behaviors or symbols at the right
time for an agreeable authority? Respectability rewards are a crap-shoot
but we do what we can within the limits of the constraints imposed by a
complex set of structural and social interactions designed to limit
access to status, wealth, and power.
I do not know how much my
mother spent on her camel colored cape or knee-high boots but I know
that whatever she paid it returned in hard-to-measure dividends. How do
you put a price on the double-take of a clerk at the welfare office who
decides you might not be like those other trifling women in the waiting
room and provides an extra bit of information about completing a form
that you would not have known to ask about? What is the retail value of a
school principal who defers a bit more to your child because your
mother's presentation of self signals that she might unleash the
bureaucratic savvy of middle class parents to advocate for her child? I
don't know the price of these critical engagements with organizations
and gatekeepers relative to our poverty when I was growing up. But, I am
living proof of its investment yield.
Why do poor people make
stupid, illogical decisions to buy status symbols? For the same reason
all but only the most wealthy buy status symbols, I suppose. We want to
belong. And, not just for the psychic rewards, but belonging to one
group at the right time can mean the difference between unemployment and
employment, a good job as opposed to a bad job, housing or a shelter,
and so on. Someone mentioned on twitter that poor people can be
presentable with affordable options from Kmart. But the issue is not
about being presentable. Presentable is the bare minimum of social
civility. It means being clean, not smelling, wearing shirts and shoes
for service and the like. Presentable as a sufficient condition for
gainful, dignified work or successful social interactions is a
privilege. It's the aging white hippie who can cut the ponytail of his
youthful rebellion and walk into senior management while aging black
panthers can never completely outrun the effects of stigmatization
against which they were courting a revolution. Presentable is relative
and, like life, it ain't fair.
In contrast, "acceptable" is about
gaining access to a limited set of rewards granted upon group
membership. I cannot know exactly how often my presentation of
acceptable has helped me but I have enough feedback to know it is not
inconsequential. One manager at the apartment complex where I worked
while in college told me, repeatedly, that she knew I was "Okay" because
my little Nissan was clean. That I had worn a Jones of New York suit to
the interview really sealed the deal. She could call the suit by name
because she asked me about the label in the interview. Another hiring
manager at my first professional job looked me up and down in the
waiting room, cataloging my outfit, and later told me that she had
decided I was too classy to be on the call center floor. I was hired as a
trainer instead. The difference meant no shift work, greater prestige,
better pay and a baseline salary for all my future employment.
I
have about a half dozen other stories like this. What is remarkable is
not that this happened. There is empirical evidence that women and
people of color are judged by appearances differently and more harshly
than are white men. What is remarkable is that these gatekeepers told me
the story. They wanted me to know how I had properly signaled that I
was not a typical black or a typical woman, two identities that in
combination are almost always conflated with being poor.
I sat in
on an interview for a new administrative assistant once. My regional
vice president was doing the hiring. A long line of mostly black and
brown women applied because we were a cosmetology school. Trade schools
at the margins of skilled labor in a gendered field are necessarily
classed and raced. I found one candidate particularly charming. She was
trying to get out of a salon because 10 hours on her feet cutting hair
would average out to an hourly rate below minimum wage. A desk job with
40 set hours and medical benefits represented mobility for her. When she
left my VP turned to me and said, "did you see that tank top she had on
under her blouse?! OMG, you wear a silk shell, not a tank top!" Both of
the women were black.
The VP had constructed her job as senior
management. She drove a brand new BMW because she, "should treat
herself" and liked to tell us that ours was an image business. A girl
wearing a cotton tank top as a shell was incompatible with BMW-driving
VPs in the image business. Gatekeeping is a complex job of managing
boundaries that do not just define others but that also define
ourselves. Status symbols -- silk shells, designer shoes, luxury
handbags -- become keys to unlock these gates. If I need a job that will
save my lower back and move my baby from medicaid to an HMO, how much
should I spend signaling to people like my former VP that I will not
compromise her status by opening the door to me? That candidate maybe
could not afford a proper shell. I will never know. But I do know that
had she gone hungry for two days to pay for it or missed wages for a
trip to the store to buy it, she may have been rewarded a job that could
have lifted her above minimum wage. Shells aren't designer handbags,
perhaps. But a cosmetology school in a strip mall isn't a job at Bank of
America, either.
At the heart of these incredulous statements
about the poor decisions poor people make is a belief that we would
never be like them. We would know better. We would know to save our
money, eschew status symbols, cut coupons, practice puritanical
sacrifice to amass a million dollars. There is a regular news story of a
lunch lady who, unbeknownst to all who knew her, died rich and leaves
it all to a cat or a charity or some such. Books about the modest lives
of the rich like to tell us how they drive Buicks instead of BMWs. What
we forget, if we ever know, is that what we know now about status and
wealth creation and sacrifice are predicated on who we are, i.e. not
poor. If you change the conditions of your not-poor status, you change
everything you know as a result of being a not-poor. You have no idea
what you would do if you were poor until you are poor. And not
intermittently poor or formerly not-poor, but born poor, expected to be
poor and treated by bureaucracies, gatekeepers and well-meaning
respectability authorities as inherently poor. Then, and only then, will
you understand the relative value of a ridiculous status symbol to
someone who intuits that they cannot afford to not have it.